Rack steering requires a long rack housing that cannot fit behind many dashboards. Rack steering is the most efficient mechanical system for moving the cable, but its drawback is its width. The rack and pinion helm includes a pinion gear fitted directly on the steering shaft that engages a rack gear in a tubular housing. You can buy replacement rack helms and cables separately, or save money by ordering a mechanical steering kit from either Uflex or Seastar Solutions Rack and Pinion Helms Drawbacks include many wear points and more accumulated backlash (free play or “slop”) from four or more gears meshing (compared with two typically found in reduction gear helms). The Safe-T II design from SeaStar, or the similar Rotech T71FC helm from Uflex, takes up the least possible space behind the dash, so it’s recommended for boats with small dashboards, or with instruments clustered around the wheel. Planetary gear type: This alternative style uses three or more gears that mesh internally with the cable drum to move the core of the steering cable.

These helms have the drawback of requiring a fairly large round assembly behind the dash, since the steering shaft is located outside the cable drum, so they often cannot be installed in smaller, more crowded dashboards. This original rotary design (which include the Big-T and Safe-T helms) is still best in terms of strength and efficiency, since there are usually only two gears. Reduction gear type: One or more gears mesh with the steering drum to move the helical core of the steering cable. There are two types of rotary helms, with different applications, strengths and weaknesses. Rotary steering helms have a round gear around which the cable turns as you turn the wheel. The helm is the mechanism behind the instrument panel that converts the wheel’s rotary motion into a push-pull motion on the cable. We’ll start by looking at the most important component, the helm. They consist of a wheel, helm, push-pull cables and connection kits-hardware that allows you to connect your steering system to your boat’s I/O or outboard engine. Mechanical Steering Systems achieve good handling performance and provide safe operation for smaller powerboats (up to 34'). Safe-T rotary helm has a relatively quick three turns lock-to-lock, but has a bulky gear housing, so is almost 7' wide. Be sure to water-test your new system carefully as you become familiar with the changes in your boat’s maneuvering. Changing from the original steering configuration may affect your boat’s handling and feel, and may be made a bigger challenge due to modifications required to accommodate the new components. The retrofit becomes a lot more complicated, however, requiring careful consideration of fit, performance and value. If you want to improve performance for faster response or lower steering effort, upgrading to No Feedback, power-assisted mechanical or hydraulic steering can result in a big improvement.

These components must be replaced as units for safety and convenience and, since engine interfacing is standardized (on systems newer than 1976) your task is simple. Repair parts for mechanical steering helms, cables and engine connection kits are not available. Try to identify the type of cable from marking on the jacket, and the helm from lettering on its cast/molded body.

This ensures that your boat will continue to handle as it was designed, and simplifies the installation process (a very doable DIY project for many boat owners). When installing new steering, it’s good practice to replace a steering system with one of the same type as was originally installed in your boat-rotary with rotary, rack with rack, hydraulic with hydraulic. Boaters generally pay little attention to their boat’s steering system, as long as it does the job without excess friction or play, but as our boats age, the steering system may need replacement.

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